![]() I have however found after several types of panel speakers that panel speakers don't work well with my listening style nor do dipole speakers agree with my analytical belief that only direct first-arrival sound is accurate. There are people who LOVE their maggies, the first ones I heard were way back in the '70s on McIntosh power. ![]() Well, that and the whole 3' from the back wall and highly directional thing, I was ready to buy a pair and received my email that they were ready to ship, cancelled. That and the need for subs to deliver below (IIRC) 50Hz, and a good powered sub at that, is the reason I changed my mind on buying the LRS. I'd more likely recommend speakers that can deliver the full dynamics of ones musical choices within the parameters of a 120Wpc MC2105, but if the OP is set on buying a pair of LRS I feel he should know that running them at what I considered a normal SPL range with dynamic classical music can require more than the aforemetioned high-current 300Wpc amplifier could deliver. I believe that you can read the patents to get a better explanation.Īs caddy responded above however, your meters are doing what they were designed to do, and will give you a decent (if not completely perfect) representation of the power delivered to your speakers. McIntosh develloped meter drive circuits, which evolved further over the different generations of amplifiers and are a more true representation of the actual power output. McIntosh meters aren’t pure volt meters driven from a voltage divider on the output. VU meters are designed for low-level signal without varying loads, were designed for recording / studio / etc. Explaining as a purely resistive load if your 8 Ohm speaker dipped to 4 Ohms (R) the VU meters would show the same voltage (E), but the current (I) would be double and therefore if the voltage remained the same the power (P) would be double. As the load impedance varies, the power varies inversely. You are correct 50, that in its most simple iteration a VU meter is simply a voltmeter that is showing (through a voltage divider) the voltage level of the output and therefore not accurately displaying power. Are the meters saying that the amp is out putting less than 5 watts when set to the "0" position? I am just trying to understand how the meters work and I assume that they would function differently when using less efficient speakers? Why is this? The volume is usually set to the 10 o'clock position. ![]() When playing music through my TT the meters do not move at all when set to "0" and move some at "-10" and much more at "-20". With a meter indication of -3dB, the amplifier delivers ¼ watt (250 milliwatts) and a -10dB meter indication the amplifier delivers 50 milliwatts" 20 In this position of the meter range switch, the amplifier will deliver ½ watt (500 milliwatts) when the meter indicates "0". With a meter indication of -3dB, the amplifier delivers 2½ watts output and a -10dB meter indication, the amplifier delivers ½ watt. 10 In this position of the meter range switch, the amplifier will deliver 5 watts output when the meter indicates "0". (A meter reading of +3.2dB indicates 105 watts power output.) "-0 In this position of the meter range switch, the amplifier will deliver 100 watts when the meter indicates +3dB, with meter indication of "0", the amplifier delivers 50 watts, with a meter indication of 3dB, the amplifier delivers 25 watts and a meter indication of -10dB, the amplifier delivers 5 watts. These are relatively efficient speakers and I was wondering if some one could clarify the VU meters for me. ![]() I have a mc2105 running through a C34v powering Zu Audio DW. Hi I was wondering if some one could clear up something for me.
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